Sep 30

Sep 30 The Gates Opened for the Pyongyang Marathon

There was a time when the DPRK (or what we call North Korea) opened their borders for tourism during the Pyongyang Marathon.

I knew I only had one chance to get in, so I jumped on it.

The Tupelov TU-204 aircraft we took from Shanghai's PVG airport to Pyongyang. At the time there were two scheduled weekly flights between the two cities. I was excited to be on my first Soviet aircraft.

My official tourist card and airline ticket!

Once a year, usually in April, the DPRK government allowed foreigners to apply to be in the Pyongyang marathon. If approved, you were issued a tourist visa to participate. Since I did not apply, I luckily found a tour agency in Shanghai that was going during that time, this would be my one opportunity to get in without having to participate.

This was no easy feat by any means. There was a rigorous questionnaire and background check through my employer to ensure that I was not only a legal resident of China, but also not a threat to them or their country. Regardless of being an American, I got my red stamp of approval from the tourism agency.

We had to leave in the dead of night to be able to arrive before sunrise. There was a lot of talk about why this was, mostly that they did not want us to see the area between the airport and downtown. I never got the real reason why, but it was eerie arriving at a single hall airport in the dead of night. Driving from the airport to the hotel, it was pitch black. Either no one had electricity or it wasn’t allowed on during the hours we arrived. We got to the hotel just before 5am and were given our room assignments, we were to stay there until breakfast at 9AM.

We were hustled onto our tour bus after a quick 30 min breakfast and we headed down towards the Taedong River stopping at Mansu Hill to see the Grand Mansu Hill Monument. All visitors to the site, both locals and foreigners, are expected to bow to show respect. Locals are required to leave flowers in order to show respect and foreigners are also given the option. Photos of the statues are permitted, but the photos must capture the statues in their entirety. Close-up photos of any part of the leader's statues are strictly forbidden.

The blessed children visiting the sacred site beneath the monument depicting the Anti-Japanese Revolutionary Struggle at Mansudae Hill.

From there we walked to Kim Il Sung Square. Kim Il Sung Square is also known as “Kilometre Zero” of North Korea; this is where all measurements of roads in the DPRK are measured from. The square is lined with buildings such as the Grand People’s Study House (also known as the National Library of North Korea) flanked by two other federal buildings, one adorned with the National Flag of the DPRK. This is also where their military parades are held.

The front of the Anti Japanese Revolutionary Struggle monument.

On the other side of the square and across the Taedong River is the Juche Tower. This is the one building in Pyongyang where you can get the most spectacular view of the city.